Hats are the accessory people most often say they “cannot wear”, and it is almost never true. What usually happened is that they tried one hat whose proportions did not work with their face and concluded the whole category was not for them. Choosing the best hats for your face shape comes down to three details: how wide the brim is, how tall the crown is, and whether the hat sits straight or at an angle.
This guide sets out those details for each of the six face shapes. It is about proportion, not about changing how a face looks. More in our Body Shape Styling section.
This guide is organised by face shape. If you are not sure of yours, the detector works from four measurements, a short quiz, or a photo that never leaves your device.
The Three Details That Decide It
Brim Width
A brim narrower than the widest part of the face tends to make the hat look small; one at least as wide as the cheekbones looks in proportion. Wide brims suit most faces better than people expect.
Crown Height
The crown is the part of the hat above the band. A tall crown adds height; a low crown keeps things compact. The useful rule is contrast — a longer face suits a lower crown, a shorter face a taller one.
Angle
A hat worn straight emphasises symmetry; a hat tilted slightly adds a diagonal line. Tilting is one of the simplest ways to make a hat work on a face it would not suit worn straight.
The Best Hats for Each Face Shape
Oval
Balanced length and width, so almost every style works. Fedoras, wide brims, berets and beanies all sit well. This is the shape where personal style decides more than proportion. Read more about the oval face shape.
Round
Width and length close to equal, with soft curves. A taller crown and a structured, angular hat — a fedora or a trilby — adds height and definition. Wearing it tilted works particularly well. Read more about the round face shape.
Square
A strong jaw and similar width at forehead and jaw. Soft, rounded shapes sit well against the angles: a floppy wide brim, a beret, a cloche, a slouchy beanie. Read more about the square face shape.
Heart
Wider at the forehead, narrowing to the chin. A medium brim works well, as do cloches and berets worn slightly back. Very wide brims can feel heavy against a narrow chin, though worn tilted they often work. Read more about the heart face shape.
Diamond
Widest at the cheekbones, narrower at forehead and chin. A hat with some width at the crown — a fedora, a beret worn slightly forward — works well with the cheekbones. Read more about the diamond face shape.
Oblong
Longer than it is wide. A low crown and a wide brim keep the proportion, and a hat worn a little lower on the forehead works well. Cloches, wide-brim sun hats and berets suit this shape; very tall crowns less so. Read more about the oblong face shape.
| Face shape | Crown | Brim | Styles that work well |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oval | Any | Any | Almost everything |
| Round | Taller | Medium, structured | Fedora, trilby, worn tilted |
| Square | Rounded | Soft, wide | Floppy brim, beret, cloche |
| Heart | Medium | Medium | Cloche, beret, medium brim |
| Diamond | Wider | Medium to wide | Fedora, beret worn forward |
| Oblong | Low | Wide | Cloche, wide brim, beret |
Beyond Face Shape
Hair
Long hair worn down adds width below the hat; hair tucked up changes the proportion entirely. Try a hat with your hair the way you usually wear it. If you are changing your cut, haircuts by face shape uses the same principles.
Your Height and Frame
A very wide brim can overwhelm a small frame; a tiny hat can look lost on a tall one. Scale the hat to your whole body, not just your face.
Glasses and Earrings
Hats, glasses and earrings all frame the face, so they work best chosen together. See glasses for your face shape and earrings by face shape.
Getting the Size Right
A hat in the right style and the wrong size never looks right. Measure your head and convert it into every sizing system before ordering.
Read how to measure hat size, hat types and sizing and how a hat should fit. Once you have a good felt hat, how to store and care for a felt hat keeps it in shape. For colour, the colour analysis quiz helps choose shades that sit well close to your face, and for the rest of your winter wardrobe, winter accessories worth investing in.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I choose a hat for my face shape?
Look at brim width, crown height and angle. A brim at least as wide as your cheekbones, and a crown height that contrasts with your face length, usually works.
What hat suits a round face?
A taller crown and a structured shape such as a fedora or trilby, often worn slightly tilted.
What hat suits an oblong face?
A low crown and a wide brim — cloches, wide-brim sun hats and berets all work well.
Can anyone wear a fedora?
Most people can, with the right brim width and angle. Oval, round and diamond faces tend to suit it most easily.
Why do hats never suit me?
Usually one hat’s proportions did not work. Try a different brim width or crown height, or wear the same hat tilted.
For background on the styles, see the fedora and the cloche hat.
