Haircuts by Face Shape: Length, Layers and Where the Volume Sits

A haircut changes the shape that frames the face more than any accessory can, which is why choosing haircuts by face shape is worth a few minutes before an appointment. The principles are the same as for glasses and earrings: contrast, and attention to where width and length sit. The tools are different: length, layers, a fringe, and where the volume is placed.

This guide applies those principles to the six face shapes. It is about proportion, not about changing how a face looks, and your hair’s texture and your stylist’s judgement matter as much as any table. More in our Body Shape Styling section.

Place volume where the face is narrowest and length where it adds contrast. Longer faces suit fringes and volume at the sides; rounder faces suit length past the chin and height at the crown.

If you are not sure of your face shape, the detector works from four measurements, a short quiz, or a photo processed on your device.

Four Tools a Haircut Uses

Length

Where the hair ends sets a horizontal line. Length at the chin emphasises the jaw; length past the chin draws the eye downward.

Layers

Layers add movement and control where volume sits. Layers around the face soften; long layers add movement without width.

Fringe

A fringe shortens the visible length of the face and frames the eyes. Straight, side-swept and curtain fringes each do this differently.

Volume Placement

Volume at the crown adds height; volume at the sides adds width. Choosing where it goes is the most powerful adjustment of the four.

Line drawing of two hairstyles: one with volume at the crown, one with volume at the sides.

Haircuts for Each Face Shape

Oval

Most cuts work, from pixie to long. Choose by texture and preference. Read more about the oval face shape.

Round

Length past the chin, height at the crown, and a side part or side-swept fringe add vertical lines. Long layers work well. Read more about the round face shape.

Square

Soft layers, waves and a side part soften a strong jaw. Length past the jaw, or a textured bob that ends just above or below it, works well. Read more about the square face shape.

Heart

Chin-length bobs and volume at the jaw add width where the face is narrowest. Side-swept or curtain fringes suit a wider forehead. Read more about the heart face shape.

Diamond

A fringe adds width at the forehead, and volume at the chin adds width at the jaw, both narrower than the cheekbones. Chin-length cuts work well. Read more about the diamond face shape.

Oblong

A fringe shortens the visible length; volume and waves at the sides add width. Shoulder-length or shorter usually works better than very long and straight. Read more about the oblong face shape.

Face shapeLengthVolumeFringe
OvalAnyAnyAny
RoundPast the chinAt the crownSide-swept
SquarePast or just off the jawSoft, around the faceSoft, side-swept
HeartChin lengthAt the jawSide-swept or curtain
DiamondChin lengthAt forehead and chinFull or side-swept
OblongShoulder or shorterAt the sidesFull or curtain
Hair texture changes everything. Very curly, very fine and very thick hair each behave differently from the same cut, so bring these principles to a stylist rather than treating them as instructions. Take this table, and a photo of the proportion you like rather than a specific celebrity cut, to your appointment. It gives the stylist the idea without asking them to copy someone with different hair.

Colour as Well as Cut

A new colour can shift which clothing colours suit you as much as a new cut shifts your proportions. Read hair colour by colour season before a big change, and retake the colour analysis quiz afterwards.

With Glasses, Earrings and Hats

Your haircut, glasses, earrings and hats all frame the face together, and a change in one can change what works in the others. See glasses for your face shape, earrings by face shape and the best hats for your face shape. For the rest of your look, the personal style quiz helps keep it consistent.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I choose a haircut for my face shape?

Place volume where the face is narrowest and choose a length that adds contrast. Then adjust for your hair’s texture with your stylist.

What haircut suits a round face?

Length past the chin, height at the crown and a side part or side-swept fringe.

What haircut suits an oblong face?

A fringe to shorten the visible length and volume at the sides, usually shoulder-length or shorter.

Do fringes suit every face shape?

Most shapes can wear some kind of fringe. Side-swept and curtain fringes are the most adaptable.

Does hair texture change what suits me?

Yes, a great deal. The same cut behaves very differently in curly, fine and thick hair, so discuss it with a stylist.

For background, see hairstyle and fringe.