The advice is repeated so often it has become a rule: warm skin wears gold, cool skin wears silver. It is a reasonable starting point for choosing gold or silver jewellery by undertone, and it explains most of what people notice when they hold the two metals against their skin. It also leaves out olive undertones entirely, says little about neutral skin, and implies there is a wrong answer — which there usually is not.
This guide sets out how undertone affects the choice between gold and silver, where the rule holds, and where your own preference is the better guide. More guides are in our Colour Analysis section.
Everything below depends on your undertone. The test takes two minutes, uses seven weighted questions and does not rely on the vein test.
Why Undertone Affects Metal
Undertone is the colour beneath the surface of the skin. It stays the same when a tan comes and goes, which is why it is a more useful guide than surface colour. Yellow gold carries warm, yellow tones; silver carries cool, grey-blue ones.
Against skin with a matching undertone, each metal looks cohesive — the skin and the metal seem to belong together. Against the opposite undertone, the metal can look very slightly separate from the skin around it. The effect is subtle, strongest close to the face, and weakest on the hands.
Gold or Silver for Each Undertone
Warm Undertones
Yellow gold, rose gold, brass and bronze tones all sit naturally against warm skin. Silver is not wrong, but it can look slightly cooler than the skin around it, especially in high-polish finishes. Read more about warm undertones.
Cool Undertones
Silver, platinum and white gold. Yellow gold can read as slightly separate from cool skin, though a pale or brushed gold narrows the gap considerably. Read more about cool undertones.
Neutral Undertones
Both metals, which is the advantage. Mixing metals works naturally, and the choice comes down entirely to preference and to the rest of the outfit. Read more about neutral undertones.
Olive Undertones
Olive skin sits on a different axis from warm and cool, which is why the standard rule so often gives olive readers a confusing answer. Both metals can work. Antique gold, brushed finishes and oxidised silver tend to work better than high-polish versions of either. Read more about olive undertones.
| Undertone | Usually suits | Also works | Finish to try |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warm | Yellow gold, rose gold | Brass, bronze | High polish |
| Cool | Silver, platinum, white gold | Pale gold | High polish |
| Neutral | Both | Mixed metals | Any |
| Olive | Both | Antique gold, oxidised silver | Brushed or antique |
The Jewellery Comparison, Done Properly
Holding gold and silver near your face is one of the quickest undertone checks, and it works best done carefully.
- Stand in natural daylight, not under warm indoor bulbs.
- Remove makeup at the jawline, or test before applying it.
- Hold a gold piece beneath your chin, then a silver one.
- Ask which one makes your skin look even, rather than which metal looks nicer on its own.
This is a useful quick check but not a decisive one on its own. The undertone test combines several checks for that reason, and excludes the vein test entirely.
When It Does Not Matter
Preference overrides the rule. Someone who loves silver and has warm skin should wear silver; the difference is subtle, and liking what you wear matters far more. Jewellery worn on the hands, pieces with coloured stones, and large statement pieces are all affected less by undertone than fine chains and earrings near the face.
Mixing metals has also become entirely normal. A single piece that combines both — a two-tone ring, a watch with gold and steel — holds a mixed look together and removes the question altogether.
Beyond Jewellery
The same undertone logic runs through clothing colour. The neutrals that sit closest to your face, the white of a shirt, the shade of a coat — all of them follow the same warm-cool pattern. Your undertone is the first step; your full colour season goes further.
Read the best whites and neutrals for each undertone next, then the best colours for your season. The personal colour palette generator includes metals in its 24 swatches. When you are ready to buy, see European jewellery brands worth knowing, earrings by face shape, and for rings, the ring size converter. Changed your hair colour recently? Hair colour by colour season explains how it affects the picture.
Undertone Test
Warm, cool, neutral or olive, from five at-home checks.
Try this free calculator to find your exact match.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does gold or silver suit me?
What jewellery suits olive skin?
Can I mix gold and silver?
Does the vein test tell you which metal to wear?
Does rose gold suit cool undertones?
For background on how skin colour and undertone vary, see human skin colour, and on the metals themselves, coloured gold.
Brand and sizing data on this site is reviewed quarterly. If a figure here is wrong, email fashion@womensfashioneu.com and it will be checked and corrected.
